Shoe manufacture



March 23,` 1943. A, RUBIN ET AL SHOE MANUFACTURE m im m W we 2 .1U ma ,uWn

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Patented Mar. 23, 1943 Abraham Rubin, Harrisburg, and GeorgeA. Faber, Millersburg, Pa., assignors to rlhe Muskin Shoe Company, Baltimore, Md., a corporation of Maryland Application April 18, 1940, Serial No. 330,412

(Cl. lil-142) 3 Claims.

The present invention relates to an improvement in the construction of shoes and the method for making the same.-

In View of the demand for increased production and the improvements made in the adhesive qualities of cements now used in thetrade, it is the general practice to assemble the upper and insole upon a last, then form an outsole of proper size and attach vthe two by means of the specially prepared adhesive, or cement. 'Ihese cements may be of any well known type, such as latex, cellulose and the like.

Shoe manufacturers have encountered considerable diic'ulty in attempting to cement these tivo members together and it is this problem to Y which this invention relates in particular.

The principal object 'of the invention is to provide a shoe construction, which will enable the outsole to be more firmly secured to the upper and insole assemblage.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved method in the manufacture of shoes which will improve their flexibility and wearing qualities.

Still another object of the invention is to provide a shoe structure in which the insole may be made of a much lighter and more flexible material.

While several objects of the invention have been pointed out,l other obects and features will be apparent from the detailed description when read in connection with the accompanying drawings which form a part of this application and in which:

Fig. 1 is a bottom View of the insole showing the member v4 attached thereto.v

Fig. 2 is a side View of the same.

Fig. 3 is a top view of the outsole 6 showing the welt 8 attached thereto.

Fig. 4 is a side View of the same. Fig. 5 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional View of the line 5--5 of Fig. 1. l

Fig. 6 is an enlarged sectional View taken along Y the line --G of Fig. l.

Fig. '7 is an enlarged fragmentary sectional View taken along the line l--l of Fig. 3.

Fig. 8 is a perspective View of an insole and upper being assembled upon a last.

Fig. 9 is an exploded view in perspective showing the outsole and the assembled upper and and insole assemblage for `holding the same in position during the cementing process.

Fig. 11 isa cross sectional View similar to Fig. 6 of a modied form of insole in which the sole is cut or moulded in such a'manner as to provide the sole about its marginal edge with an increased thickness. l

Referring nowv in particular to the drawings, the construction of the shoe comprises an upper I0, which is i'lrst assembled upon a last i2 with an insole 2. This may be hereinafter referred toas the upper assemblage.

The insole is rst built up about its peripheral edge preferably by a strip 4 which may be of leather, fiber, duck or any suitable materials, which is cut about its outer edge i4 to enable the strip to readily form' to the configuration of vthe sole. The member ill is xably secured about the outer marginal edge of the insole by an adhesive of the above mentioned character. Adjacent the toe of the insole is a member I5 inserted between the strip 4 and the insole to slightly elevate the same. VThis member I5 is also cemented to the outer surface of the insole and the linner surface of the strip member 4.

A modified 'structure of the insole is shown in Figure 11 and referred to by numeral'3. The soleis prepared by forming the sole with its edges of increased thickness, as yshown at "3". The lmethodof forming the 'sole is either by cutting away the central Section5, moulding, pressing, or by any other suitable or convenient methods. This form is used with equal success with the insole upon which the separate member 4 is attached, but at present, the insole having the attached strip has been found more economical to manufacture and therefore the description of this'structure is set forth in detail. It is to be understood that the scope of the inventionfis 'intended to include both forms.

The inner surface of the portion it of the upper I0 extending downwardly over the insole is coated With'cement for securing the upper to the sole. In addition to cementing the upper to the insole, small nails 2D may be used adjacent the heel section of the shoe where little or no bending takes place. The insole is preferably reenforced'frorn a point adjacent the shank section rearwardly toward 'the heel vby either, or both-'of Athe members lI8 and 19.

Between the turned-'in 'edges H3 andthe strip 4 'a filler 22 is inserted. This filler is preferably made of cork, felt 'orfother suitable composition to ll thevspace Amorder to support the central section of 1`the insole :upon the'outsole when the two are assembled, otherwise the central section of the insole will be unduly depressed by the foot of the wearer.

Referring to the particular structure of the outsole, it is likewise first formed to properly fit the last carrying the upper assemblage. About its upper marginal edgeis a Welt 8, which is secured to the sole by the 'stitches 24 or other convenient means. The welt is tapered inwardly at 2B, as shown best in Fig. 7. The tapered portion 2B and the sole in the Vicinity of the welt are covered with cement as shown at 28 in Fig. 2, for attaching the sole and welt to the assembled insole and upper in the position as illustrated in Fig. 9. Both, or either of the surfaces t be joined have applied thereto the cement, which is usually applied some time before the assembling of the parts. When assembling the upper and outsole the cement is softened or activated by a suitable solvent applied to the coated surfaces just prior to the joining, after which they are tightly pressed together by a suitable press and held in contact until the cement has set.

As shown in Fig. l0 the outer edges 2' and 4" of the insole and attached member respectively terminate in a Vertical plane passing through the upper edge 26' of the taper of the welt. This arrangement provides for a maximum amount of pressure to be applied at the extreme top edge of the taper during the setting of the cement. The member 4 attached tothe insole extends inwardly over the joining inner line between the welt and the outsole and acts to equalize the pressure over the joint and surrounding surface. When the upper and outsole are cemented together this member will cause the portion I0 of the upper to be firmly pressed against the welt and into the irregular surfaces of the outsole, including the inner joining line between the welt and the outsole.

In carrying out the preferred method of manufacture, the insole is first cut to fit the bottom of the last I2. The strip 4 is formed and cemented about the peripheral edge of the insole, as shown in Fig. 1. An upper l0 is also cut to size and fitted over the last allowing its lower edges IU' to extend downwardly over the bottom of the last and insole, as shown in Fig. 8. Cement is first applied to the outer surface of the strip 4 and to the inner surface of the extended edge l0 of the upper. These two surfaces are then pressed together by a suitable press. Within the central area between the inner edge of the strip 4 and the edge I0' of the upper there is cemented a ller sheet of cork or felt, or other suitable material of substantially the same thickness as these two members. These elements, comprising the upper, insole and filler sheet, form the upper assemblage.

A second assemblage is comprised of the outsole and welt. The outsole is cut to a size to properly t the bottom of the last over the upper and insole. The welt 8 is cut with a tapered side edge 26 and is stitched, or otherwise secured to the upper marginal edge of the outsole. The welt when applied to the outsole is arranged so that the taper extends inwardlyv toward the center of the sole. Over the tapered portion of the welt and adjoining inner surface of the outsole a coating of cement is applied.`

The cement is allowed to dry and when the outsole assemblage is ready for use the cement is vent has been applied to the cement coating. The last is rigidly supported by a suitable support and the outsole assemblage is pressed against the bottom of the upper assemblage by a press 3D, preferably one which is operated by :duid but any well known press may be used with equal success. The pressure required will depend on the particular type of shoe being manufactured and the materials being used. The pressure in any instance being sufficient to cause the adjoining surfaces to be tightly pressed together and retaining them in this position Auntil united by the drying of the cement.

The building up of the insole about its peripheral edge is of great advantage in building this particular type of shoe. As stated hereinbefore this portion acts as an equalizer for the pressure between the last and the outer sole. This added thickness permits a more even cementing of the parts than could otherwise be accomplished.

A shoe constructed by this method will have excellent flexibility and wearing qualities and at the same time will be neat and stylish in appearance While the present invention has been described in its preferred form, it is to be understood that it is not to be limited to the exact detail referred to herein as the scope of the invention is best defined in the following claims:

l. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole having a separate member attached to the bottom marginal portion thereof, the lower edge of the said upper extending downwardly and inwardly beneath the insole and attached member and secured thereto by cementing, an outer sole having a welt secured to its upper marginal edge portion, the attached member and welt being arranged in such relationship one above the other that the attached member extends over the inner joining line of the welt and outsole, and means consisting of cement for securing the outsole and welt to the said upper.

2. An improved method of making shoes which consists of increasing the thickness of the insole about its lower marginal portionv and assembling the same with an upper upon a last by cementing the lower edge of the upper beneath the said marginal portion of the insole, assembling an outsole and welt, said welt having its tapered edge extending inwardly toward the central section of the sole and being of such dimensions as to permit the thickened margin of the insole to overlie the said taper of the welt and extending over the inner joining line between the welt and outsole when placed thereon, and cementing the said outer sole and welt to the said upper under pressure.

3. An improved method of making shoes which consists of building up an insole about its lower marginal portion by xably securing thereto a separate member and assembling the same with an upper upon a llast by cementing the lower edge of the upper beneath the fixed member, assembling an outer sole and welt, said welt having its tapered edge extending inwardly toward the central section of the sole and being of such dimensions as to permit the member aflixed to the insole to overlie the said taper of the welt and extend over the inner joining line between the welt and outsole when placed thereon, and cementing the said outer sole and welt to the said upper under pressure.

ABRAHAM RUBIN. GEORGE A. FABER. 

